www.citroën.cc

100,000 miles

Yesterday the D’s speedo odometer finally rolled over to 100,000 Miles! very exciting to see all those zeros appear. It is still running smooth and fast

Renovation process 2011

• 18 February 2011 – New electrics are finally in and working!! no more randomly flashing charge lights! Long time coming but worth it hopefully… a completely new unit with all new wiring. It was sad to see the old original Ducelier unit out, but it was just not going to settle down it seemed. Had the diode replaced under warranty about 4 times over several months. Uniquely it seemed to be only the one that controlled the charge light that kept blowing or playing up.



• 18 March 2011 – The Hydraulic pump has been rebuilt. It had a tiny crack and worn doodads and was effectively creating a milkshake hydraulic oil situation. I had to bleed the car every time i started it up and about every 10 km of driving when the brake was applied the car would sink and then not come back up without a bleed. All working FAB now and smooth.

Renovation process 2010

• March 2010 – Well the wet weather has not done good things to the electricals… we had record HUGE rainfalls over the last few weeks including landslides on roads and rail-lines in the mountains in early Feb. The bad weather has continued for the whole month. Actually most of this summer has been very wet and hot.
  The car refused to start after about 5 days of torrential rain and general very high humidity and some heat. Battery was so totally dead – indicating it should not be recharged… so I bought a new battery and it still would not start so had to get it towed and taken to get fixed. You could see some corrosion starting on the battery connector from ambient atmospheric moisture. The alternator had shorted out and damaged the regulator and discharged the battery. Alternator has been repaired and regulator replaced and also 2 additional relays added to the circuit. Spark plugs replaced as well – choked up due to flooding while trying to get it started most likely. I will need to go over the under bonnet area and look for any further issues when the weather settles again.
• March 2010 – The summer wet weather has created more problems. A nasty surprise was had when checking for leak damage in the passenger floor area. Rust has formed by leaking through the front left box section seal and it has rusted it’s way through to form a hole about 1cm wide. A very hard one to spot till it’s formed a hole. Surface rust has developed over the passenger side floorpan area under the carpet. Rubber seals have temporarily been removed from the drain holes to drain and dry the area and the door step covering vinyl has been lifted as well. A small hole has formed in the box section. This will be cut out and replaced after the main seal is repaired and the whole area is rust treated. The carpets are all in perfect condition still and only the sound proofing padding had any water or rust staining – which was very light. Surface rust has leached through under the fabric [vinyl] cover along door step where the water has soaked the padding. Only real damage here is to the fabric padding which can be replaced. It looks way worse than it is. The rust – aside from around the actual box section hole – can be scratched off with a wire brush etc. and is very much only surface and very light. This box section damage is currently being repaired.
  
  Larger images have been loaded into flickr.
  
• March 2010 – There is also now rust in the multilayered section at the bottom corner of the passenger side door. It will need to be cut out I would guess – have to get it looked at. It has penetrated the inner layers of metal on the edge of the door and the paint has pealed back – but does not show on the outside.
  
  
• May 2010 – been a bit of a delay but the internal rust has been removed. Here’s what the panel section cutout looks like all cleaned up and treated inside.
  
  
• September 2010 – a diode in the alternator has blown for the second time. It’s being replaced under warranty. The only symptom is that the charge light is on permanently. It was flickering for some time indicating that there was a voltage variation, then ‘ping’ it came on. It does not appear to affect any other aspect of the electrics and the battery is charging fine etc.

Renewal of this site

I’m currently undertaking a renovation of this site and updating everything. I hope you find it more friendly and organised. Lots more current info coming and i’ve tried to bring the links and references up to date. It’s a long term project with little time available to do it…

btw – anyone who says you need to understand the technology involved in these cars to be able to appreciate them is lying. They [mostly and usually] look great, they drive like nothing much else on the road and they often generate conversation with strangers.

Spend less time fixing and more time driving them!

Also they drive better the faster you go

7 _ March _ 2010

Renovation to do list

Items I really need to do…

The organic nature of these cars is evident over some time – you start to realise nothing stands still or stays fixed and it will continue to degrade regardless of whether you drive it or not.

• get synchro on gear 2 fixed
• clean and repaint engine bay
• maybe new steering wheel at some stage – current one has some heat damage but is covered currently with a leather wrap I made so no urgency to that
• work out a way to better clean the dimpled edging vinyl/plastic fabric around floor/doorways step
• maybe add temperature gauge and sender [not supplied on dspecial - and not urgently required]
• retouch chrome paint on dash fittings and rechrome dial surrounds
• rust removal and repaint of boot panel which has appeared as dots along the leading edge from the inside [which  is a very common problem.]  and the painted surface has crazed. I had the boot repainted and they did really bad job – it needs stripping again to bare metal.
• repaint roof again due to compression marks in small section of the fibreglass roof panel – sort of like circular stress marks
• de rust door edges and check drainage holes again – and respray with cavity wax.
• check rubber drainage seals and replace any corroded ones
• re-polish stainless hubcaps